So you found an injured or orphaned wild animal...now what?!
Step 1:
Take a step back and assess the situation from a distance. We first must determine if the animal(s) is truly injured or orphaned. Use the information found on this page to determine if the animal is in need of assistance, proceed to step 2!
Step 2:
DO NOT FEED OR ATTEMPT TO TREAT. This can often do more harm than good. Different species require different formulas and feeding techniques. Feeding a cold and dehydrated animal can cause death.
Step 3:
Never handle an animal bare-handed. Use extreme caution and good hygiene practices. Wear proper PPE. Use thick gloves and thick towels to move and handle wildlife. If bitten or scratches, contact your local health department.
Step 4:
Place animal in a dark container in a calm and QUIET room. Orphaned animals must be kept warm with an external heat source. You can microwave a sock filled with rice or dry beans, use a warm water bottle, or a snuggle-safe disc. Check your heat source hourly to ensure it is still warm. Use an old cloth as a barrier between the animal and heat source.
Step 5:
Contact a licensed rehabber! Our phone number is 859-809-3397. Leave a detailed voice-mail and send pictures if applicable. Be the animal's advocate. Many rehabbers are busy and may not have space. Please bare with us. We are volunteer and are doing our best. Do not give up. Thanks for caring about wildlife!
This page is a great place to start if you find yourself in a situation where you have found an injured or orphaned wild animal. Spring through summer is the period in which animal rescuers lovingly refer to as "baby season." This is when many animals are having their babies and are more active.
Remember: human safety is of the utmost importance. Never put yourself in danger. Always wear gloves and use good hygiene practices. Never touch a wild animal barehanded.
Baby Raccoons (Kits)
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Baby raccoons need to come into care if they are coming up to humans for help, have flies/ant/bugs crawling on them, have crusty eyes or nose, trouble walking, near a deceased mother or visibly injured/emaciated. If you have a kit showing any of these signs, contact a rehabber immediately. Keep baby contained in a quiet area and warm with external heat source.
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If you find a seemingly healthy orphaned raccoon kit, it is best to try reuniting baby with mom. Watch the baby closely for the next 12 hours, if mom does not return by then, contact a rehabber. Keep baby contained in a quiet area and warm with external heat source.
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Adult Raccoons
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It is best to not trap and relocate a healthy adult raccoon. This can often lead to displacement and death of the animal. It can also create orphans if the animal is a nursing mother.
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If you find an adult raccoon that lacks an appropriate human fear response, has crusty eyes or nose, visibly injured or sick, unable to move, or is breathing heavily contact a rehabber immediately!
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Common Problems and Solutions
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Bright (motion-sensor) lights, loud radios, ammonia-soaked rags, predator urine can HUMANELY encourage raccoons to leave spaces such as attics and sheds. Raccoons have multiple den sites and will move their young. Try to be willing to give her some time. Close up any entry holes immediately after the animal leaves. Babies can also be placed in a secure box outside of closed entry hole. Keep baby contained in a quiet area and warm with external heat source.
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Remove outside food sources, as this can attract and create problems with wildlife.
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Secure trash cans with bungee cords.
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If you see a raccoon during the day, do not assume it has rabies. It may simply mean they are hungry and need to find food. Nursing mothers require a higher caloric intake.
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Warnings​
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Raccoons are a rabies vector species. This means they have the ability to contract the rabies virus, just like dogs and cats. Use caution, never touch a wild animal bare-handed. If bitten, contact your local health department ASAP.
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Raccoon roundworm (Baylis ascaris) is a parasite that can be transmitted to humans. Wear masks and proper Personal Protection Equipment (PPE) when cleaning up raccoon messes. Learn more here.
Raccoons
Baby Squirrels (Kits)
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You can often tell a baby squirrel apart from other species because THEY ALWAYS HAVE BLACK NAILS.
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A baby squirrel that is covered in ants or flies (ant bites or fly eggs), dirty, bruised, bleeding from nose/mouth, or has visible wounds needs to come into care immediately. If the baby is coming up to you for help, it is probably orphaned and will need to be brought to a rehabber. If the baby has been caught by a cat, even if you do not see any obvious signs of injury, contact a wildlife rehabber.
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Healthy baby squirrels can often be reunited with mom. Squirrels are typically good mothers and will come back for their young. Leave baby in a box close to where you found it. You can nail it to a tree or secure the box some other way. If the baby came from a recently cut-down tree, leave the baby near the stump. Never leave babies in direct sunlight (they can become dehydrated and sunburnt). Mom will not come back if she feels threatened so keep dogs, cats, children, and commotion away. Allow 24 hours for mom to pick up her baby. If it gets dark, bring the baby inside and keep warm for the night. Try to reunite again the next day. After 24 hours has elapsed, contact a rehabber!
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Adult Squirrels
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Injured adult squirrels are easy to spot. They are laying around, lethargic, blood may be visible, they appear dirty, they do not seem interested in food, etc. Carefully, put animal in secure box/crate in a dark, quiet, and calm area. Use thick gloves or a towel. Squirrels can chew through cardboard so a kennel or wire mesh cage would be best.
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Common Problems and Solutions​
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Squirrels are notorious for getting into gardens or other spaces that they shouldn't! Spraying cayenne pepper, peppermint oil, or predator urine around gardens can help deter them from getting into areas that you prefer they stay out. Ammonia-soaked rags and loud radios can help evacuate squirrels from attics and sheds. Trapping and relocating is not a humane solution.
Squirrels
Image credited to Brook's Bend Wildlife
Chipmunks
Baby Chipmunks (Kits)
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Chipmunks live in underground "dens." A baby chipmunk that is above-ground, outside of its nest almost always requires a rehabber. Chipmunks are excellent mothers, and it is rare to find an orphaned baby. Sometimes it can be difficult to differentiate an adult and a baby due to the species' small size, contact a rehabber for help. A chipmunk that has been caught by a cat needs to come into the care of a wildlife rehabilitator immediately.
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Adult Chipmunks
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Injured adult chipmunks can appear lethargic, bloody, dirty, not interested in food, etc. Very carefully, place the animal in a secure box and keep it dark, quiet, and calm area. Use thick gloves or a towel to handle the animal. Chipmunks behave similarly to squirrels and can be fast and have strong jaws (ouch!). As with most rodents can easily chew through cardboard so be mindful of this.
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Common Problems and Solutions​
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Chipmunks are notorious for being naughty and causing problems! Try spraying cayenne pepper, peppermint oil, garlic, coffee grounds or predator urine around gardens to keep them away. Ammonia-soaked rags and loud radios can help evacuate chipmunks from attics and sheds. Trapping and relocating or killing is not a humane solution.
Groundhogs
Baby Groundhogs (chucklings/pups)
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Groundhogs excavate burrows to have their babies, called chucklings or pups. They are dedicated mothers and are very protective over their offspring. This is why they are not one of the more common wildlife babies to be brought into care. The chucklings stay in the burrow for 30 to 45 days. Mom will leave to forage for food and on occasion a little pup may wander out of the burrow in search for her. For this reason, it is best to watch a baby groundhog from a distance. Look around for a possible burrow entrance. You can herd the young to the entrance, or if the pup is too small, it can be gently placed near the entrance. WAIT to see if mom returns. She will not leave her litter for very long. If she does not return after a few hours, call a rehabilitator.
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Sometimes the chuckling may have obvious signs of distress, injury, or simply seems "off". If the baby has flies/maggots, is bleeding, or has severe signs of dehydration, this is a situation to contact a wildlife rehabilitator immediately!
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If you have a baby in need of care, secure the chuckling in a box (older babies will need something stronger than cardboard). Placing a towel or small blanket will give the baby some comfort in this time of stress. Keep the baby warm with supplemental heat (warm bag of rice or hot water bottle) until you are able to get it to a wildlife rehabilitator.
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Adult Groundhogs
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Adult groundhogs that appear injured, or seem ill, will need to be brought to a rehabilitator. WATCH out for a groundhog's powerful bite! Be mindful of the fact that groundhogs are capable of chewing through cardboard.
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Common Problems and Solutions
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Landowners do worry about destruction that groundhogs can potentially cause to their property. However, groundhogs actually will often avoid foundation and concrete structures when digging a burrow. They may burrow under or around these areas causing little to no damage.
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If landowners really would like their resident whistle pigs to move on to their next burrow sites, there are somethings they can do without trapping or killing. Try to be patient and wait until after babies are out of the burrow (around August). When you see the groundhogs leave the burrow, you can sprinkle predator urine, blood meal (available online), ammonia-soaked rags, or used cat litter around the entrance. You can also try hanging aluminum pie pans from stakes around or near the burrow entrance.
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Opossums
Baby Opossums (joeys)
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If you have a baby in need of care, secure the joey(s) in a box with a secure lid. Placing a towel or small blanket will give the baby some comfort in this time of stress. Keep the baby warm with supplemental heat (warm bag of rice or hot water bottle) until you are able to get it to a wildlife rehabilitator.
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Adult Opossums
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Adult opossums that appear injured, or seem ill, will need to be brought to a rehabilitator.
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Common Problems and Solutions
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Foxes
Baby Foxes (kits)
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Foxes are monogamous. Red Foxes reproduce one time per year, typically from December through February. Gray Fox breeding season starts a little later than Red Foxes. Den sites of Red Foxes can be made from already existing burrows, even those made by groundhogs or badgers. They will usually have multiple entrances and exits. Den sites of Gray Foxes are usually in hollow logs or trees, or rock piles. They will den in leaf and bark-lined underground burrows. Male foxes bring the females food for the 3 weeks that she is nursing the kits. Non-reproductive females, that have remained with their parental units, will also aid in feeding the mother during this period.
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Gestation lasts around 49-58 days. Average litter size is 4 to 6 kits. In periods of high mortality, litter sizes can more than double the next season. Kits are born blind and deaf. They will open their eyes after 13-15 days. Fox kits are born with dark, fluffy fur. And after about 3 weeks, Red Fox coats begin to appear more orang/red in color and Gray Fox coats have an orange and silver color.
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Since foxes make great parents, most often times they do not need to be brought into care. It is rare for both parents to not be attending to the kits. Signs that dad/mom or older sibling are still feeding the kits are seen at the entrances of the den. There will be fresh and old kills left for the kits to eat. If there are no signs of an adult fox caring for the kits and/or the kits seem lethargic and weak, then they do need to be brought into care of wildlife rehabilitator. It is best to call first and explain the situation to the rehabber to be absolutely sure the kits are in need of help.
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If you have a baby in need of care, secure the kit(s) in a box with a secure lid. Placing a towel or small blanket will give the baby some comfort in this time of stress. Keep the baby warm with supplemental heat (warm bag of rice or hot water bottle) until you are able to get it to a wildlife rehabilitator.
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Adult Foxes
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Adult foxes that appear injured, or seem ill, will need to be brought to a rehabilitator. Caution is strongly advised, avoid bites and scratches. Foxes (Red Fox and Gray Fox) are Rabies Vector Species. This does not mean that they are carrying the disease, but strong potential is there. If you are bit, you will need to contact your local Health Department for further instructions. Most wildlife rehabilitators will not accept exposure cases due to the huge liability they present.
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Common Problems and Solutions
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Foxes can sometimes carry transmittable diseases and are often infested with sarcoptic mites (which cause mange) and dog lice. In extremely rare occasions, they may prey on small pets. They will often go after chickens and raid hen houses for eggs.
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If the fox appears to be ill or shows signs of mange, keep pets away from the area. Call Kentucky Fish and Wildlife or an Animal Control Officer for your area. You can also contact a wildlife rehabilitator. Foxes are crepuscular, they are most active during the hours of dawn and dusk. Keep pets in at night, this will ensure their safety. Predator proofing hen houses and aviaries is the best way to keep the birds safe. The enclosure needs to be secure on all sides, including the top and bottom.
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